29 January: feast of Saint Costanzo

The end of January marks the feast of the patron saint of Perugia. In fact, the city has three patron saints but for “il santo della grande freddura” (the cold-weather saint), the city puts on its feast-day clothes for a few days.
On the vigil of the feast, during the traditional procession called Luminaria, civil and religious authorities process through the historic centre carrying five gifts to honour the patron: a laurel crown, a large candle, a torcolo (ring-shaped bread), incense and vinsanto (a sweet wine).
The following day, many activities are scheduled, not solely religious or historical but gastronomic as well. Among them, the fair in Borgo xx giugno stands out: a traditional exhibit and market of regional artisanal products; and, in Corso Vannucci, the long-awaited tasting of the Torcolo di San Costanzo, a ring-shaped braided bread containing dried fruit that recalls the crown of flowers placed on the neck of the saint to hide the signs of his decapitation.
An interesting curiosity: a young woman “in età da marito” (of marriagable age) who wants to know whether she will marry within the year goes to the church of San Costanzo and, as she watches the play of light reflected on the image of the saint, must note whether he winks at her. If so, she will marry; otherwise, her fiancé will offer her the gift of a torcolo di San Costanzo in consolation.
And as the Perugini say:
“San Costanzo dall’occhio rotondo famme l’occhietto sinnò n’ciartorno”.
(“San Costanzo dall’occhio rotondo fammi l’occhietto sennò non ci ritorno più”).
(Round-eyed Saint Costanzo, wink at me or else I won’t come back.)